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Climbing on
Mount Ruapehu
By Peter
Laurenson Powderhound's resident photographer
and passionate mountain man.
Ruapehu
has more to offer than just skiing. While it's
not the Southern Alps , it still has some interesting
climbing on offer - from a plod to the main summit,
through to some vertical ice on the eastern side.
In winter time it's a place that demands respect
- changeable weather, fully covered in snow and
ice, with numerous avalanche hazards. So if you're
going to climb on Ruapehu, be responsible for
your own safety - check the weather and snow conditions
and climb in appropriate gear, which means crampons
and at least a walking ice axe.
Mt. Ruapehu
is a composite cone type volcano dated at 250,000
years old, which is recent compared to the surrounding
Te Kuiti limestone on the plains to the west,
which is approximately 20 million years old. Ruapehu
has erupted up through this upper limestone layer
of the crust and, over the past 120 years, has
had 47 separate eruptions.
At 2797
metres, the true summit of the mountain is the
highest point on the north Island , named Tahurangi.
Climbing Tahurangi essentially involves a simple
plod from the top of the Highnoon T-bar on Turoa
ski field on the south western flanks, although
there are a few steeper sections around the summit
that you can play about on. There's plenty of
room on top and the views of the entire mountain
are superb. Directly below to the north is the
Crater Lake .
You can also access the summit plateau and main summit from Whakapapa Ski field to the north, up the Whakapapa glacier. It’s a longer plod and prepare to roast on fine days, but this approach also provides access to the Pinnacle Ridge, on which there are some nice rock formations offering good short climbs.
The Pinnacle Ridge leads ultimately to the summit of Te Heu Heu (2732m). A more challenging approach though is from the east, via the Tukino club ski field, accessed from the Dessert Road – 4 wheel drive is essential. From Tukino, make your way up to the Mangatoetoenui Glacier. For skilled climbers, it’s possible to climb the steep rime encrusted south face of Te Heu Heu, but don’t take this one on lightly. For mere mortals, you can access the summit via a nice little moderate ice face at the western end of the south face, just as you reach the plateau. The ascent route is between Tukino and Te Heu Heu peaks.
From Tukino or Whangaehu Hut you can also access a 45 metre ice waterfall that is good for lead climbing or top roping – try it under full moon on a clear, calm night - if you’re lucky enough to get those conditions.
At the southern end is Girdlestone, named after a railway engineer and surveyor who first climbed it. It’s not as high as the main summit (2685m), but the terrain is steeper, with some pretty interesting rime ice sections. You can climb Girdlestone from various approaches solo, if you have alpine experience, but some climbers elect to pitch some sections near the summit on the south west face.
A normal approach is from the Mangaehuehu Glacier, accessed from the top of the Highnoon T-bar on Turoa. From there, head east to the Skyline Ridge (2340m) and down on to the Mangaehuehu Glacier. Traverse across and cut under a rock/ice buttress to the base of the south west face. Eventually this will lead onto to the first summit at approximately 2580m. On easier ground, traverse onto the slope which takes you to the true summit – a great spot for lunch – seats 2 or 3.
An easier option is the north ridge. From the Mangaehuehu Glacier, traverse across and up to the western face of Girdlestone, which eventually leads you onto the north ridge. Or you can even make a traverse from Tahurangi across to Girdlestone. This offers great views and some interesting steep icy sections.
Then there are other options like the Cathedral Rocks (2663m), the highest point of the ridge dividing the Mangatoetoenui and Whangaehu Glaciers; Mitre peak (2501m), directly east of Tahurangi; or why not just lug your tent up to the summit plateau and hang out there for a while – it’s sublime, if the weather is nice to you.
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